I visited Darjeeling in 2004 and it has definitely stayed
on as one of my favorite vacationing spots. The weather is chilly and
beautiful, the trees tall and green, and the entire atmosphere very
pristine. The mist, though foiled by smoke, only adds to the cool mystic
feel of the place. We stayed in a hotel which offered a stunningly
clear view of Kanchanjunga, the 3 peaked mountain.
Darjeeling
has one of the longest and best Mall Roads I have ever seen. The locals
sell a very interesting assortment of items from woolens to wooden
artwork, wind chimes, toys, shoes, cosmetics. We ate locally cooked
momos sitting in a roof top restaurant and later watched traditional
Nepali, Baul dances in the Nightingale park. We endured a trip to Tiger
Point in freezing weather at 5 a.m. in the morning to watch the sunrise.
The
next morning saw us at a war memorial, tastefully gardened. There were
girls in traditional Kashmiri clothing, and telescopes to take advantage
of the fabulous view. The toy train, all of red and black with huge
glass windows, took a winding route around the place, puffing silver
smoke. The Ghoom railway station, the highest station in the world, was
its destination. Situated close to it is a pencil art gallery, a must
stop for the artistically inclined.
I will never forget
the Darjeeling zoo, small but well maintained, and surely the animals
more cared for than in the Alipur zoo! An adorable black bear couple
welcomed us, peaceful in nature unlike their snarling Alipur cousins.
They were amazingly cute together, the connoisseur of every tourist's
eyes, the female moving around and eating, the male religiously
following her every move. Two large and extremely aggressive tigers were
next, then came 5 wolves looking quite like the hunting pack, deer,
depressed looking leopards and a fluffy panda clinging to a tree.
Finally the Tenzing Norgay memorial and the museum which housed all the
equipment the 1st expedition to Everest had carried. And a comprehensive
model of the Himalayan range.
An entire day was set
aside for the trip to Mirik. We drove along a road which cut through
forests so dense that the canopy of trees filtered out sunlight
entirely, the darkness hinting at an ancient secret well hidden, giving
the place a mystical haunted feel, the path shrouded in mist, hiding
wild animals in their midst. The occasional Lays wrapper and Aquafina
bottle was the only spoil in this perfection, making me want to get out
of the car and sweep the place clean. At the lake, I rode 4 horses,
among my favorite animals, and fell in love with one of them! ;)
On
the way we passed the Nepal border. There were houses belonging to
farmers which stood on Indian land, as the area was guarded by the
Indian army and yet they were Nepali citizens living in Nepali homes.
Technically they were living in 2 countries at once! I won't forget my
1st 'going out of India' experience, signing a ledger and walking
across. My brother bought a fantastically cheap video game there.
We
left for Gangtok, driving along the length of a river with water the
color of the deepest emeralds, and banks of diamond white sand. The
Kalimpong monastery did not fail to take our breath away. The highlight
of the journey was a stop at a cactus nursery where my parents were delighted to find fish and rice. Gangtok is home to the Do Drul Chorten, where it is said that turning
the 108 prayer wheels can rid one of his sins. I admit that I got tired
after my 27th!
From there, we visited the Rumtek
Monastery, well known for its history and for famous lamas visiting it.
Situated amidst a serene forested mountain, free of cars and
civilization, it is a huge complex housing monks of all ages from 4 to
80. We walked the last mile to it. The monks seemed accustomed to the
presence of tourists and accepted us as a part of their environment,
going about their usual chores and prayers, which made it even more fun
to watch. The monks' quarters had children studying Buddhist text, a
group practicing martial arts with spears, some meditating at the forest
edge. The visit to the prayer hall was an exhilarating experience. The
monks sat by rank, the young watched by the old, one of them leading the
chants and music and the rest chanting after him in perfect rhythm. We
were allowed to walk around them to appreciate the artfully decorated
ceilings and the sculptures decked in gold and gems, provided we caused
no disturbance.
The most unforgettable part of the trip
for me was a visit to a monastery just outside Gangtok. It was a small
and simple place with none of the lavish decorations the other
monasteries could boast of. A pure white stupa stood outside. If someone
had asked me what peace was, I would have said that this was it. It was
the epitome of tranquility, the perfect harmony between nature and man.
I sat there for a long while after the monk had finished his chant,
still and peaceful with myself and with the world.
I
love the quietude that monasteries, mosques and churches have to offer.
It makes me want to cast my mind around and reach out to God. It was
heavenly to just sit there and think, with no sound except the stillness
of nature and call of birds, the tinkling of bells and clang of plates.
The chants so serene, it felt like they were calling out to God, and
would for all of eternity. It made me believe why Buddhism is the
religion of peace.
