Thursday 27 February 2014

Darjeeling and Gangtok

I visited Darjeeling in 2004 and it has definitely stayed on as one of my favorite vacationing spots. The weather is chilly and beautiful, the trees tall and green, and the entire atmosphere very pristine. The mist, though foiled by smoke, only adds to the cool mystic feel of the place. We stayed in a hotel which offered a stunningly clear view of Kanchanjunga, the 3 peaked mountain.

Darjeeling has one of the longest and best Mall Roads I have ever seen. The locals sell a very interesting assortment of items from woolens to wooden artwork, wind chimes, toys, shoes, cosmetics. We ate locally cooked momos sitting in a roof top restaurant and later watched traditional Nepali, Baul dances in the Nightingale park. We endured a trip to Tiger Point in freezing weather at 5 a.m. in the morning to watch the sunrise.

The next morning saw us at a war memorial, tastefully gardened. There were girls in traditional Kashmiri clothing, and telescopes to take advantage of the fabulous view. The toy train, all of red and black with huge glass windows, took a winding route around the place, puffing silver smoke. The Ghoom railway station, the highest station in the world, was its destination. Situated close to it is a pencil art gallery, a must stop for the artistically inclined.

I will never forget the Darjeeling zoo, small but well maintained, and surely the animals more cared for than in the Alipur zoo! An adorable black bear couple welcomed us, peaceful in nature unlike their snarling Alipur cousins. They were amazingly cute together, the connoisseur of every tourist's eyes, the female moving around and eating, the male religiously following her every move. Two large and extremely aggressive tigers were next, then came 5 wolves looking quite like the hunting pack, deer, depressed looking leopards and a fluffy panda clinging to a tree. Finally the Tenzing Norgay memorial and the museum which housed all the equipment the 1st expedition to Everest had carried. And a comprehensive model of the Himalayan range.

An entire day was set aside for the trip to Mirik. We drove along a road which cut through forests so dense that the canopy of trees filtered out sunlight entirely, the darkness hinting at an ancient secret well hidden, giving the place a mystical haunted feel, the path shrouded in mist, hiding wild animals in their midst. The occasional Lays wrapper and Aquafina bottle was the only spoil in this perfection, making me want to get out of the car and sweep the place clean. At the lake, I rode 4 horses, among my favorite animals, and fell in love with one of them! ;)

On the way we passed the Nepal border. There were houses belonging to farmers which stood on Indian land, as the area was guarded by the Indian army and yet they were Nepali citizens living in Nepali homes. Technically they were living in 2 countries at once! I won't forget my 1st 'going out of India' experience, signing a ledger and walking across. My brother bought a fantastically cheap video game there.

We left for Gangtok, driving along the length of a river with water the color of the deepest emeralds, and banks of diamond white sand. The Kalimpong monastery did not fail to take our breath away. The highlight of the journey was a stop at a cactus nursery where my parents were delighted to find fish and rice. Gangtok is home to the Do Drul Chorten, where it is said that turning the 108 prayer wheels can rid one of his sins. I admit that I got tired after my 27th!

From there, we visited the Rumtek Monastery, well known for its history and for famous lamas visiting it. Situated amidst a serene forested mountain, free of cars and civilization, it is a huge complex housing monks of all ages from 4 to 80. We walked the last mile to it. The monks seemed accustomed to the presence of tourists and accepted us as a part of their environment, going about their usual chores and prayers, which made it even more fun to watch. The monks' quarters had children studying Buddhist text, a group practicing martial arts with spears, some meditating at the forest edge. The visit to the prayer hall was an exhilarating experience. The monks sat by rank, the young watched by the old, one of them leading the chants and music and the rest chanting after him in perfect rhythm. We were allowed to walk around them to appreciate the artfully decorated ceilings and the sculptures decked in gold and gems, provided we caused no disturbance.

The most unforgettable part of the trip for me was a visit to a monastery just outside Gangtok. It was a small and simple place with none of the lavish decorations the other monasteries could boast of. A pure white stupa stood outside. If someone had asked me what peace was, I would have said that this was it. It was the epitome of tranquility, the perfect harmony between nature and man. I sat there for a long while after the monk had finished his chant, still and peaceful with myself and with the world.

I love the quietude that monasteries, mosques and churches have to offer. It makes me want to cast my mind around and reach out to God. It was heavenly to just sit there and think, with no sound except the stillness of nature and call of birds, the tinkling of bells and clang of plates. The chants so serene, it felt like they were calling out to God, and would for all of eternity. It made me believe why Buddhism is the religion of peace.