Thursday 28 February 2013

The best afternoons in Singapore

Singapore is mostly a futuristic city, with lots of skyscrapers, beautiful roads and people ignoring everyone and going about their own business. At times, the lack of emotion and detachment you face from the locals can scare you! Especially after seeing smiling faces all over the rest of Asia!

Helix Bridge

View from Marina Bay

Marina Skypark


Nevertheless, two wonderful afternoons will always stay in my memory!

Arab Street

What a beautiful place! The palm trees, cafe-lined streets and shops selling rugs, jewelry, hookah, skirts, scarves, and what not. I had some great-tasting Turkish coffee at a cafe - the different varieties of Muslim cuisines were just mouth-watering! There were shops selling Arabic perfumes (of the strong varieties), Egyptian perfume glass bottles and belly dance scarves. Behind Arab Street were Muscat Street and Bushrah Street, just as pleasant and relaxing. It was a stark contrast to the rest of the city. The place gave off an aura of culture, colour and flirtatious friendliness!

The start of Arab Street

Muscat Street

Bushrah Street

Cafes in the inner lanes

Cafes and shops on Arab Street

Arab Street

Botanic Gardens

You can spend an entire day, walking or relaxing in the quiet parts of the gardens. It is definitely not among the top attractions, but a good place to go to if you have a week or more in Singapore. I visited them on a hot, sunny day and after a few hours of walking and lunch at 'Casa Verde', I was dead tired. So I lay down in the first place I saw (I think it was called Upper Palm Valley). The heat was making me drowsy. Closeby, two musicians were playing Spanish songs on their guitars, I recognised Bamboleo. When I closed my eyes, I could almost imagine that i was in Spain! It was one of the most relaxing siestas I have ever taken!

Lower Palm Road


Palm Valley


Ginger Garden

Swan Lake

Going solo

Kanchanaburi is about 2-3 hours away from Bangkok. It's a nice place, with the famous bridge over the River Kwai, Death railway and the very-tropical, very-magical Erawan waterfalls. Levels 5, 6 and 7 do not have many tourists and are the best place to sit and relax, and perhaps get a free fish spa!

I booked a room at Sam's River Raft House, which has basic floating rooms available at cheap rates. The nightlife is good and seems lively, with a lot of pubs and  bars. Being in Thailand, the entire 2-day trip cost me about 50$.

View from the bridge over the River Kwai

Vampoo Viaduct


War Cemetery






The people in Kanchanaburi are friendly and helpful beyond imagination. I was doing the trip cheap and tried to take trains and buses all the time. At one point, I could not locate the bus stop to go to Erawan Waterfalls, so I approached the 7/11 behind and asked the girls at the counter where the bus stop was. They told me there was no stop there. At this point,one of the girls left her counter, walked to her scooter, motioned to me to sit behind her and then drove me all the way to the bus terminus. She dropped me near a bus, repeating "Erawan" a few times and with many smiles.

Erawan Waterfalls

The way back from Erawan was half an adventure. The public bus was filled with tourists and the only free space I could find was the stairs near the back door. So I took it. All throughout the journey, I had to hold on to the door and stop myself from falling asleep to avoid falling out of the bus.

Travelling solo, I had complete freedom to do whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted! There is so much time to observe and take in your surroundings, and think about the experience! I met other tourists (a Russian, a Japanese) and locals (3 Thai kids who guided me to the railway station because they thought I was lost, smiling shyly all the way). I found out that people are more likely to approach you when you are alone, than when you are in a group.

Almost heaven! Ladakh

They say there is a place in this world where everyone finds a heaven. For me, that was Ladakh. Its desolate beauty mesmerizes me, made as if by God's own hands, and leaves me with a strange longing . The pilot was flying low, to give us our first glimpse of the snow and the mountains. I was left breathless, and even that would be a mild way to put it. For in my wildest dreams I could not have conjured up such an unusual sight. I saw the mountains, laid out before us like dunes of ice in a sandless desert.




















The air feels cool and strange like being in an other world, a fairy world, vast and delicate. I walked into it and came upon a stunning landscape, like a painting, with tall pines, barren lands, cosy houses, streams, and mountains far off.


And I drive along quiet roads alongside mountain ponies. The River Indus flows past, still sedate, not yet the raging force of the monsoons. The waters captivate me, their sapphire, indigo and violet. Stones strewn along the riverbanks and mountainsides have never known so many colors. It looks like the perfect place to be in.


The streets are empty, the tourist season has not begun. The snows are beginning to melt and the air is thin, making visibility much easier. Everywhere I go, I see simple houses and simple lives, a harsh weather and an infertile land borne with endearing smiles.


The clouds are so close to me, I feel like I could touch them with my fingers. They throw their shadows on the hills, like shapeshifters come to life. It is cold, the wind feels chilled, the trees wave their arms in the breeze as I watch the farmers work with a bullock plough.


It is said that the Buddhists built their monasteries in isolation from the centre of life, to stay safe from warring invaders and to help them in meditation. The way up to Thiksay Monastery is an arduous climb, and I think of how tough every part of life is in that stark land. Like the place will have its dues from you for all the beauty it offers in return. The monastery is beautifully decorated, a place to pray and to live in, a place to spend hours in peace and reflection. The monks, like the people, welcome you with a bow and a blessing.


The mountains such as stand sentinel. The stones and snow jealously guard that beauty, pristine and preserved. They strike at me with fear and inspiration. And I know that we cannot be allowed to live amongst them.


We drove to Chang La Pass, where there is an army outpost. I wonder how they manage to live in the harsh cold, but then I wonder if they are among the chosen fortunate. We were greeted by hot tea and a chance at having a snow fight.



If there could be a time when your heart fails to beat, then this is it. This is just it. The sky was a midnight blue, a roof of the world not so far from reach. The folds of the mountains were majestic and powerful, nestling rocks and brided by snow. If there were a moment you felt you never before knew beauty, then this was it.


What colour could you ever make, when nature has everything in her. A river dried by months of winter and waiting for the first drops of rainfall. Stones and ground lie exposed on her bed. The first grass of the warmer months spring up and a herd of pashmina goats come to eat. The shepherd sits dreaming, alone on the mountainside. And how I envy him.




The famous lake. So pristine, clear and calm; its surface like glass, the birds flying over it unruffled and unconcerned. A place for contemplation or just sitting and doing nothing at all. (despite the indisciplined hordes wanting to take "romantic photographs" of Titanic poses, well it was kind of amusing)


The place you dreamed of being in, while watching Lord of the Rings


Snow fall. And escaping from a terrible mountain storm.



Coming down to Leh city and her monasteries






A place so quiet, you could experience what the sound of silence is like.. Leh Shanti Stupa


The confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers lies not far from Leh. In May, the snows that feed the Indus have not melted yet, while Zanskar is a raging force of water. The calm blue river meets the ferocious grey one, its territory is encroached upon. The swirling foam at their confluence is a thrill to look upon. The wind is fierce here, almost pushing you off the ground. The cold numbs you. Another place you feel helpless and awestruck by nature, like if she decided to take you with her, you would have no defense at all.


London

My flight landed at Heathrow airport in the evening, and we left the airport at 8 pm to broad daylight outside. It was 6 degrees centigrade and really windy.

London has pretty, red and white colored houses, lined together, and with gardens and parkways. Overnight stay was at Hotel Ibis in Wembley (strongly recommended). Wembley is a quiet neighborhood on the outskirts of London with empty streets and a lot of eat-out options. Sunset was at 9.30 pm with an hour of dusk before it. It was extremely cold, for which reason, we could not walk around on the roads.

I woke up at 5 am the next morning because of the early sunrise (around 4.30 am). Got ready to an awesome breakfast at the hotel. Continental breakfasts are my favorite, and the place had a variety of meat (sausages, salami in pork, chicken, beef and I cannot name everything that was there), fruits, breads, juices, beverages.

Wembley



















Starting on a city sightseeing tour, our driver Marcelle was Czech, and had a fully tattooed arm. We drove to Buckingham Palace and spent some time photographing the beautiful square, statues and gates. Too early for Changing of the Guards (a true show with lot of colors and music) which is slated from 11:30-12. The Palace was closed to public and the Queen was at Windsor castle over the long weekend. It started raining, making it colder, and suddenly the sweater and shawl I was wearing seemed insufficient!

Buckingham Palace

From there, we visited Westminster Abbey. The Abbey is beautiful and the buildings around it marvelous and not to be missed, especially by photography enthusiasts. We drove over the River Thames to get a panoramic view of the Abbey and the Parliament buildings nearby. We soon came upon the London Eye, a giant Ferris wheel that gives you a view of London for miles around (which is quite easy, as there are few skyscrapers). Big Ben stands next to Parliament and is actually a clock tower, though commonly referred to by the name of the bell in it. The tower was named after Sir Benjamin, an overweight politician and commissioner of works.

Westminster Abbey

London Eye over the River Thames


The Tower of London, a castle with two defense walls and a dry moat stands on the banks of the Thames. The moat was once filled with water from the Thames river, but that got difficult to maintain due to the silt constantly thrown up by the Thames current. It is a fortress that hosts the crown jewels and the Kohinoor diamond.

The drive took us to Trafalgar Square (and Nelson's Column), a place with beautiful buildings and teeming with tourists. Our coach drove us through the famous streets of London - 10 Downing Street, Piccadilly Street, Baker Street, Oxford Street, Regent Street, Abbey Road, Shaftesbury Avenue; the names, histories and stories of which our guide narrated to us at top speed! The presence of a guard in a fancy red uniform in front of 10 Downing amused the children, while the horse he was sitting on was a fascinating sight! Mary, our guide, told us that these big beautiful horses are reared and trained at Windsor Castle.

Our next stop was at More London Riverside, an office area with modern architecture, glass buildings and a rare skyscraper. From there, we had a clear view of Tower Bridge, which is often mistakenly called London Bridge and considered as the iconic symbol of London. The bridge is detachable at the centre to allow large ships to pass under it. The London Bridge is the next bridge upstream and is, by the way, quite a plain bridge with no arches or noticeable structures.

More London Riverside


Tower Bridge

Next was a ride on the London Eye, situated on the south bank of the River Thames. The giant wheel takes 35 minutes to complete one full round and moves very slowly and steadily, so no need to worry if you are apprehensive of heights or have motion sickness! You can get an awesome view of River Thames and the intermittent white bridges over it, and of London city with its beautiful sand colored buildings. The ride ends with a view of Shakespeare's Globe on the waterfront, a replica of the Globe Theatre where Shakespeare's plays were performed and which was destroyed by fire. Later, we watched a 4D show of London's sights, which was quite entertaining for children.

View from London Eye of London city

Shakespeare's Globe


All of this was covered before lunch (about 1 pm at McDonald's). The afternoon was free for a visit to Madame Tussaud's wax museum. The popularity can be gauged by the long entry lines even on a cold windy day! You are welcomed in various languages as you climb the winding staircase to the 1st level, the Hollywood level. There are life like statues of some actors, Daniel Radcliffe, Leonardo DiCaprio, Brad Pitt, Bruce Willis, JLo, among others. It is said the museum people change the locations and set-up of the statues often. At the time of my visit, one of my favorite actors, Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow was standing on the deck of a pirate ship.

Madame Tussaud's wax museum


The 2nd level is for sports enthusiasts, the 3rd for historical figures and British royalty and the 4th my favorite, the music section! The 4 Beatles merrily seated on a sofa, MJ captured in a trademark dance step. Queen Elizabeth and the Duke, Prince William and Countess Kate stood tall on a podium and people could stand with them, wear a crown and have themselves photographed. The volunteers at the museum take photographs which may be framed or printed for a few euros. Identifying the statues and getting photographs with them was definitely one of the most 'fun' parts of the trip!

Entry fees for the London Eye, Madame Tussaud's are quite high, so look for combo offers where you pay something like 55 Euros for entry to 4 places.