Thursday, 28 February 2013

Almost heaven! Ladakh

They say there is a place in this world where everyone finds a heaven. For me, that was Ladakh. Its desolate beauty mesmerizes me, made as if by God's own hands, and leaves me with a strange longing . The pilot was flying low, to give us our first glimpse of the snow and the mountains. I was left breathless, and even that would be a mild way to put it. For in my wildest dreams I could not have conjured up such an unusual sight. I saw the mountains, laid out before us like dunes of ice in a sandless desert.




















The air feels cool and strange like being in an other world, a fairy world, vast and delicate. I walked into it and came upon a stunning landscape, like a painting, with tall pines, barren lands, cosy houses, streams, and mountains far off.


And I drive along quiet roads alongside mountain ponies. The River Indus flows past, still sedate, not yet the raging force of the monsoons. The waters captivate me, their sapphire, indigo and violet. Stones strewn along the riverbanks and mountainsides have never known so many colors. It looks like the perfect place to be in.


The streets are empty, the tourist season has not begun. The snows are beginning to melt and the air is thin, making visibility much easier. Everywhere I go, I see simple houses and simple lives, a harsh weather and an infertile land borne with endearing smiles.


The clouds are so close to me, I feel like I could touch them with my fingers. They throw their shadows on the hills, like shapeshifters come to life. It is cold, the wind feels chilled, the trees wave their arms in the breeze as I watch the farmers work with a bullock plough.


It is said that the Buddhists built their monasteries in isolation from the centre of life, to stay safe from warring invaders and to help them in meditation. The way up to Thiksay Monastery is an arduous climb, and I think of how tough every part of life is in that stark land. Like the place will have its dues from you for all the beauty it offers in return. The monastery is beautifully decorated, a place to pray and to live in, a place to spend hours in peace and reflection. The monks, like the people, welcome you with a bow and a blessing.


The mountains such as stand sentinel. The stones and snow jealously guard that beauty, pristine and preserved. They strike at me with fear and inspiration. And I know that we cannot be allowed to live amongst them.


We drove to Chang La Pass, where there is an army outpost. I wonder how they manage to live in the harsh cold, but then I wonder if they are among the chosen fortunate. We were greeted by hot tea and a chance at having a snow fight.



If there could be a time when your heart fails to beat, then this is it. This is just it. The sky was a midnight blue, a roof of the world not so far from reach. The folds of the mountains were majestic and powerful, nestling rocks and brided by snow. If there were a moment you felt you never before knew beauty, then this was it.


What colour could you ever make, when nature has everything in her. A river dried by months of winter and waiting for the first drops of rainfall. Stones and ground lie exposed on her bed. The first grass of the warmer months spring up and a herd of pashmina goats come to eat. The shepherd sits dreaming, alone on the mountainside. And how I envy him.




The famous lake. So pristine, clear and calm; its surface like glass, the birds flying over it unruffled and unconcerned. A place for contemplation or just sitting and doing nothing at all. (despite the indisciplined hordes wanting to take "romantic photographs" of Titanic poses, well it was kind of amusing)


The place you dreamed of being in, while watching Lord of the Rings


Snow fall. And escaping from a terrible mountain storm.



Coming down to Leh city and her monasteries






A place so quiet, you could experience what the sound of silence is like.. Leh Shanti Stupa


The confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers lies not far from Leh. In May, the snows that feed the Indus have not melted yet, while Zanskar is a raging force of water. The calm blue river meets the ferocious grey one, its territory is encroached upon. The swirling foam at their confluence is a thrill to look upon. The wind is fierce here, almost pushing you off the ground. The cold numbs you. Another place you feel helpless and awestruck by nature, like if she decided to take you with her, you would have no defense at all.


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