Thursday, 14 August 2014

Ruins of Sukhothai

Sukhothai, meaning "Dawn of Happiness", was the ancient capital of Thailand in the 13-14th centuries. The Sukhothai Historical Park contains the remains of Thai and Khmer temples, and Buddha statues from this period, and is now a World Heritage Site. Though most of it is broken and ruined, it has been preserved in the state it was found in, without much modern intervention.

The Park is enclosed by three walls and moats, which are often invisible because of forest growth. There is a gate facing each of the four directions. It costs 100 Baht (3$) to enter the Park for a day, and it is easy to get around on a bicycle, which can be hired almost anywhere in Sukhothai.

How to get to Sukhothai: Air Asia's land transfer deal goes from Bangkok Airport right upto the Park entrance! There are buses from Bangkok and Chiang Mai as well.

Where to stay: Lots of hotels, resorts, guesthouses at 5-10 minute cycling distance from the Park. You can see fireflies in some of the rice fields nearby at night!



There are moats and ponds all over the Park, where you can see beautiful reflections at dawn or dusk


Wat Mahathat is the central and biggest temple in Old Sukhothai


Beautiful tree-lined roads for cycling, have tourists and local children from nearby schools


Sunrise and sunset are the best time to visit, to see the light playing on the ruins and to escape the unbearable heat


The central temple, Wat Mahathat and its moat


Sun setting on the Buddha statue at Wat Mahathat


Ruins, statues and ancient trees


Sunset on the western face of Wat Mahathat


Sukhothai's Buddha statues are unique, because of their curved anatomies and postures. According to a local guide, this was reflective of the people's happiness and prosperity of the old Sukhothai kingdom.


Wat Sa Si is situated in the middle of a reservoir. A beautiful, serene place to sit after dusk.



Local dance performance, depicting the rise of King Ramkhamhaeng in the Sukhothai kingdom


Light and sound show at Wat Sa Si


Wat Si Chum has a beautiful, partially hidden statue of Buddha, and is often approached even now for good luck and blessings


The "perfect hand" is flowing, graceful and without visible joints and bones. Little golden leaves are stuck on it to ask for good luck.


Full circle of a rainbow over Sukhothai


Countryside with its rice fields, rich colours, quiet and peaceful


Walk upto Wat Saphan Hin, which has a solemn-faced Buddha statue that overlooked the ancient Kingdom. The statue is in the pose of "stop fighting". It was also used as a viewpoint to spy on approaching armies.



Saturday, 28 June 2014

Ancient rice terraces of Philippines

The rice terraces of Banaue in Philippines are 2000 year old terraces that were carved into the mountains, mostly using basic handheld tools. The walls of the Banaue terraces are shaped with mud, but the terraces of nearby Batad and Hapao are walled with stones and concrete. The terraces are immense in size! I could not imagine how much time it would have taken to carve them using the very basic tools and machines!

The Batad rice terraces is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and collects a tourism fee for maintenance of the terraces, when they are damaged during natural disasters. Banaue's terraces are visible from anywhere within the town of Banaue in northern Luzon. I had an amazing view of them from my hotel room. To go to the Batad terraces, you need to trek through a forested mountainside. The Hapao terraces are easier to reach, and the walk through them is just mesmerizing!

I took an overnight bus journey from Manila to Banaue, which seems to be the only way so far to get there. I spent the first day visiting the Batad terraces, with a tricycle driver/guide. Filipino buses have an interesting concept of "centre seats". After the bus has started moving, these tiny seats magically appear in the aisle of the bus! I must say that trekking after spending the night trying to sleep on the baby centre seats is not a great idea! My second day was spent in visiting the Hapao and Banaue terraces.

Traditional costume


Sunrise on the Banaue terraces


View from my Banaue room


View from my room again!


Batad rice terraces on an entire mountainside. The other mountains are of stone and could not be carved.


Beautiful bright colours in June!


The terraces are just immense!


Fairy hut at Hapao terraces!


Eagle - national bird of Philippines


Walking through the Hapao terraces, we saw many local farmers who own the terraces, grow, eat and trade the rice


Hapao is tranquil, beautiful and stunning!


Children playing a "filling the cup" game at a hot pool


Farmers at the Hapao rice terraces


Chocolate hills and emerald rivers of Bohol


Chocolate Hills


Loboc river is transparent in the morning and changes colour to green by afternoon



Kayaking on the river


Local children playing in the river


Resort huts by the river


Dinner place!


Inside a floating restaurant on the Loboc river


Tarsier, small monkey with very big eyes!


Damages from the Bohol earthquake in 2013, which affected many of the old church buildings


Alona beach, Panglao. to the south of Bohol

Saturday, 26 April 2014

Secret islands: Koh Yao






Swing or hammock - take your pick!



Koh Yao is a set of beautiful, pristine, and largely undeveloped islands near Phuket in Thailand. It is way less crowded and more peaceful than the nearby Phi Phi Islands. Less than an hour's boat ride away from Krabi pier, it is fairly easy to reach. What sets it apart are the wooden swings and hammocks on every beach, where you can spend hours doing nothing. And the little beach shacks and cafes with great food and fruits, and ever-smiling Thais. And the fact that if you go to one of the smaller islands, you are most likely to be the only person on the beach!



There are few options for accommodation - you either opt for luxury bungalows or for backpacker cottages like these!


All of Koh Yao's beaches have shells of amazing shapes and colours


Definitely my favourite place to sit!


In the island interiors, the jungles and bat caves are still intact




I hired a fishing boat for a day, to visit some of the smaller islands nearby. Koh Kudu was one that stood out. Limestone rocks close off the entrance to the island, forming a small lagoon in the process. The beach has it all - soft white sand, green water, incredible views! Take away all the noise and trash from Phi Phi and Phang Nga (James Bond island) and you have Koh Yao!

You won't have the same level of comfort and hotel facilities, and that means spending the night with frogs and lizards (and some other unidentifiable insects) in your room. I hitchhiked a ride on my last day, from the hotel to the pier - my companions being lots of hotel towels. The van driver, boatman and every other person I met was just super-friendly and helpful, and I was greeted by a lot of "India Thai - same same"!


Koh Roi



Koh Kudu's two towers



Picnic on the beach!